What Is an Asscher Cut and Where Did It Come From?
Introduction
Square, symmetrical, and dripping with Art Deco energy, the Asscher cut is what happens when emerald-cut elegance meets princess-cut drama. If clean lines, vintage glam, and geometric precision set your heart racing, this just might be the stone for you.
Definition
The Asscher cut is a square diamond with gently clipped corners and 58–74 step-cut facets stacked in concentric layers. A high crown and deep pavilion create bold flashes-often called the “windmill” effect-inside an octagonal outline that feels simultaneously structured and timeless.
Where It Came From
In 1902, master cutter Joseph Asscher-yes, the man who cleaved the Cullinan Diamond-patented this shape in Amsterdam. The Jazz Age adored it; cocktail rings and cigarette cases sparkled with Asschers throughout the 1920s. After a mid-century nap, it roared back in the early 2000s when the Asscher family introduced the Royal Asscher, adding extra facets and deeper brilliance for a new generation of vintage-loving brides.
Why It Matters Today
- Transparency: Mirror-like steps make inclusions visible-great for clarity connoisseurs.
- Face-up presence: The neat square silhouette makes modest carat weights look substantial.
- Design versatility: Fits perfectly in sleek modern bezels or ornate vintage halos.
Famous Examples
- Elizabeth Taylor’s Krupp Diamond: A 33.19 ct D-color Asscher, auctioned for $8.8 million.
- Pippa Middleton’s ring: A 3 ct Asscher framed by a vintage-style halo-Internet frenzy guaranteed.
Pro Tips for Choosing an Asscher
- Clarity counts: VS2 or better-step facets don’t hide imperfections.
- L/W ratio: Aim for 1.00-1.05 to keep that perfect square vibe.
- Depth sweet spot: 60-68 % balances brilliance with face-up size.
- Protect the corners: V-prongs or bezel settings are musts for active lifestyles.
Ready to Design Yours?
Curious how an Asscher looks IRL? Book a no-pressure consult at our Scottsdale studio and compare stones side-by-side. We’ll walk you through sparkle, symmetry, and custom settings-down to the last prong.