Square, symmetrical, and dripping with Art Deco energy, the Asscher cut is what happens when emerald-cut elegance meets princess-cut drama. If clean lines, vintage glamour, and geometric precision set your heart racing, this cut might be your signature style.
At Quantum Qarat, we adore the Asscher for its history, precision, and undeniable presence. Here’s a deep dive into what makes this diamond cut so enduring.
Definition - What Exactly Is an Asscher Cut?
The Asscher cut is a square diamond with clipped corners and 58–74 step-cut facets arranged in concentric layers. Its high crown and deep pavilion create bold flashes of light - often referred to as the “windmill effect” - within its distinctive octagonal outline.
Think of it as a geometrically perfect hall of mirrors, built for both drama and symmetry.
Related Read: How to Know What Stone Is for You - helps match your diamond shape to your style and lifestyle.
Where Did the Asscher Cut Come From?
The Asscher cut traces its origins to 1902, when Joseph Asscher, a legendary diamond cutter in Amsterdam, patented the design. He’s also famous for cleaving the Cullinan Diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found.
The cut exploded in popularity during the 1920s Jazz Age, adorning cocktail rings, cigarette cases, and high-society jewelry. After a lull in mid-century decades, the Asscher saw a revival in the early 2000s, thanks to the Asscher family’s Royal Asscher update - adding more facets for extra brilliance and modern appeal.
Why the Asscher Cut Matters Today
- Transparency for Clarity Lovers – The step-cut style acts like a mirror, revealing the diamond’s interior. For high-clarity stones, this is a feature, not a flaw.
- Generous Face-Up Size – The square shape and large table make smaller carat weights look larger.
- Versatile Design Fit – Works beautifully in both minimalist modern settings and intricate vintage halos.
Famous Asscher-Cut Diamonds
- Elizabeth Taylor’s Krupp Diamond – A 33.19-carat, D-color Asscher, sold for $8.8 million at auction.
- Pippa Middleton’s Engagement Ring – A ~3-carat Asscher in a vintage-style halo that sparked online frenzy.
Pro Tips for Choosing an Asscher Cut
- Clarity Is Key – Aim for VS2 clarity or better. Step facets don’t mask inclusions.
- Perfect Square Ratio – Look for a length-to-width ratio of 1.00–1.05.
- Ideal Depth – Stay within 60–68% for balanced brilliance and size.
- Corner Protection – Choose V-prongs or a bezel setting for durability, especially for active wearers.
Related Read: Choosing the Right Metal for Men’s Wedding Bands - helps you pair your Asscher with the perfect band.
FAQ: Asscher Cut Diamonds
1. Is an Asscher cut the same as an emerald cut?
No - both are step cuts, but the Asscher is square with clipped corners, while the emerald cut is rectangular.
2. Are Asscher cuts more expensive?
Price depends on quality factors (cut, clarity, color, carat). They’re often priced similarly to emerald cuts.
3. Do Asscher cuts sparkle as much as round cuts?
They have a different kind of sparkle - fewer but broader flashes of light (a “hall of mirrors” effect) rather than the constant glitter of a brilliant cut.
4. Are Asscher cuts good for engagement rings?
Yes - they offer timeless style, work in various settings, and look especially striking in vintage-inspired designs.
5. What settings work best?
Asschers pair well with solitaire, halo, or bezel settings, depending on your style preference.
Ready to See an Asscher Cut Up Close?
Curious how an Asscher diamond performs in person? Book a no-pressure consultation at our Scottsdale studio or start your custom design online. We’ll walk you through sparkle, symmetry, and setting options - down to the last prong.